Saturday, November 22, 2008

First full day in Cairo

Flight was long and uneventful. I'm here!
I was awakened today by the 5am call to prayer. Not an unpleasant sound. After learning about Islam from our shared foreign exchange student, Camilla, I can only hope that the lovely sounding message blasted all over the city is something like "Allah reminds you at the beginning of this beautiful day to love one another. Today, be kind, be of help to someone in need in this vast city." I smiled and went back to sleep for two more hours!

Yesterday was a good introduction to the city. I learned how many expats there are in Cairo, how to cross the street and how to take a taxi.

After 4 hours of sleep - plane arrived in the middle of the night - we went to the annual International Christmas Bazaar at the Hilton Hotel downtown next to the Egyptian Museum. I think there were 65 countries represented by expats selling food and goodies. Kathy and I met 2 friends from her school and rode the metro into city center. We rode in the "women's car", an additional protection from groping in the subway. Most of the women wore western clothing but were "veiled", that is, they've covered their hair with exotically twisted and wrapped scarves of great beauty. Many of these women are gorgeous, and I see these scarf contraptions as making them look more alluring and mysterious rather than modest and chased. There were a few women in bags of cloth with their faces showing - decidedly chased looking - and a few burqas - just walking bags of cloth.

We split up immediately and braved the throngs for a German potato pancake and sausage, then took to the streets in the neighborhood to look in a few shops Kathy knows about.

Crossing the street is an art in self-preservation. Those little green blink walking figures occasionally (very occasionally) seen are nothing more than enticements for the unwary who don't understand that minibus drivers use them to pick off tourists... or at least strip off a layer of clothing on their rear view mirrors. Car do not stop for, they run over pedestrians! To cross the street, you must plunge into traffic, looking for staggered lanes, often 4 or more. Cars are careening in front and behind you, and your job is to hold tight and wait for a space in front to clear so that you can move to the next lane. Kathy's strategy is to get down-lane from an Egyptian male and cross when he crosses, using him as a human shield. It's like a video game with dire consequences if you loose!

Taxis are another game. You negotiate your fare before getting in - no meters - and hang on. I may be wrong about the translation of the many times a day calls to prayer. It could be something like, "Please Allah, protect all those unwary tourists jumping into cabs without seatbelts hoping that their drivers actually know how to drive... and Allah, please make sure that brakes and horns actually work!"

It's too easy to get lost here. Streets wander, alleys look like streets, signs are in Arabic, and everything is made of the same color plaster - sand. My sister is amazing. With a few Arabic phrases she plunges into the mire, confessing that she gets lost, but finds her way eventually. She responds kindly to persistent demanding street vendors, and she looks thoroughly at home in this unlikely place. Without her, I would not have stuck my nose out the door. But with the experience, I'm ready for another day of new things!

Today it will be Garbage City, City of the Dead and Al-Azhar Park. Brother-in-law Forrest and I are joining a private tour created by expert neighbor, MJ created for her guests. Taxis arrive at 12:30.

When I figure out how to download images, I'll be adding pictures, so check back.
Joanne

2 comments:

Renee Casterline said...

Joanne,
Nice post, very entertaining. I like the traffic story. When I was in San Jose, Costa Rica it was very similar. Here we are, two adults with a guide, and we're waiting for an opening to cross (they do use cross walks there, sort of). This father steps out with his little boy in tow (he was about 5, I'd guess). A taxi starts to roll up on the pair as if he's going to run them over, and the little boy stops and holds his hand out toward the taxi in a very commanding way, and stars the driver down. It killed me. We hurried up to follow him.
Take care out there.
Renee

Anonymous said...

Hey mama,

Wohoo... sounds like a fun adventure already! Oh man, I'm wishing I could be there with you. Hey, I was just talking with a friend in my book group who spent time in Egypt. She said that the fabrics there are fabulous and she would spend hours in the fabric shops in Cairo. I suppose that Cath is in the know about stuff like that but just checkin. Love Ya, Rachel